Day 40: Paddington to Limehouse Basin
Next is a section of canal 9 miles long with 12 locks descending a total of 86' to the Basin, where we're going to moor up on the wall this side of the lock and go through the lock tomorrow. We're joining 4 other boats, so will be going through the lock in two batches, with the first 2 boats going into a holding position - pointing into the incoming tide and maintaining sufficient speed - on the river to wait for the rest. This isn't an easy manouevre, so we're assuming that Simon will choose experienced tidal river boaters for it.
On the way to Limehouse today, we'll pass by Regents Park Zoo, King's Cross, Islington and lots of other places we knew from living in London for more than 20 years - but we're sure this will be from a different perspective. Oh and there are two tunnels, both one-way so we have to be sure of no oncoming craft when entering.
We left at 9.30am and had the most demanding day we've ever had on the canals, so much so that we had no energy to take photos. The locks were exceptionally heavy and some paddles extremely difficult to turn (our ratchet windlass came in useful). Nearly every lock was against us, so we had to fill it first before descending. The wind gusted strongly in gaps betweeen buildings, throwing the boat about unexpectedly. Boats were moored on every available site sometimes 3 or 4 abreast and we were forced to stop for 30 minutes on lock bollards (something we'd normally avoid) for a break. There were also hardly any other boats moving, which would normally be a help at locks.
At Commercial Road Lock, the final one before the Basin, we did encounter another boat, a 70' historic narrowboat repurposed as a fuel boat. As is usual with these, the steerer was solo and (also a normal practice) he brought its bow right up to the lower lock gate in order to secure it to the lock bollards, jump off and work the lock. Since we needed to use the bollards too, he brought his boat into the lock before we exited so we could get a rope around one. Jan then went to find out where our convoy was moored, which turned out to be three boats abreast against the wall on the far side of the Basin. At 6.30pm (phew!) Jan carefully steered around the many moored boats and came to rest as the fourth breasted boat, with kind assistance from Alan on Best of British and encouragement from the others, who were on shore watching us come in.
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| At rest at last in Limehouse Basin - from the left: Catnap, Priceless, Dreammaker, Best of British. Our fifth member, Ian on Medusa is moored behind |
We finished off the day together with a drink at The Grapes, the 500 year old Thamesside pub co-owned by Ian McKellen.
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